Aperture #216
“Fashion”
Guest Editors Inez & Vinoodh
Fall 2014
The theme for Aperture‘s fall 2014 issue is “Fashion,” produced in collaboration with the groundbreaking fashion photography duo Inez & Vinoodh. The issue explores the role of image quotation and reference, which are part and parcel of any creative act but are essential to the world of fashion. “In today’s professional climate…you’re only as good as your references,” note Inez & Vinoodh, a husband-and-wife team whose collaboration of more than 25 years is marked by restlessness and curiosity about photography. Frequently working with artists, graphic designers, and even pop stars, they have earned both commercial success and art-world kudos. The issue showcases contemporary and historical work from both inside and outside the field of fashion—not to mention the tension and frequent crossover between those categories—as well as key touchstones, including breakthrough magazines and advertisements. Inez & Vinoodh also reveal their key influences, as they note, echoing Vogue Paris editor Emmanuelle Alt, that fashion is based on a “string of memories.”
WORDS—The sharpest ideas in photography
Donatien Grau considers Inez & Vinoodh’s long-standing collaboration; Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt in conversation with Penny Martin, editor of The Gentlewoman; curator Charlotte Cotton on the state of fashion; Alistair O’Neill considers how the documentary tradition has influenced the work of many fashion photographers; and Marketa Uhlirova looks athow contemporary fashion films reference still photography.
PICTURES—The magazine’s visual showcase
The magazine’s portfolio section presents Tamara Berghmans on the influential Dutch photographer Ed van der Elsken; Jason Evans on Shiseido’s beguiling vintage ads; Inez & Vinoodh on photographs that have served as references for painting, plus notes on the icons of fashion photography; Phil Bicker on pioneering fashion magazines i-D, The Face, and Jill; and emerging fashion photographers Margaret Durow and Daniel Arnold.
COLUMNS:
What Matters Now?
Contributions by founder and director of Open Engagement Jen Delos Reyes; president of Pace/MacGill Gallery Peter MacGill; curator and writer Marvin Heiferman; and artist and filmmaker Nir Evron.
Curriculum
A List of Favorite Anythings by Alec Soth
Collectors: The Painters, with contributions by:
Wade Guyton
Ellsworth Kelly
Julie Mehretu
Amy Sillman
Redux
Mary Statzer on The Extended Document (1975)
Object Lessons
Prints from Blow-Up, 1966
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